Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Thailand day 1: Bangkok

Sunday, December 16th
The trip actually started yesterday with the flight from Tokyo to Bangkok. I arrived around 9pm and within 18 hours had encountered the worst that Thailand had to offer. Thankfully, after that things looked up. After arriving and all that entails (customs, immigration, etc.), I walked outside the airport to get a taxi to the city. I was inundated with taxi drivers yelling at me to try to get my business. My trusty Lonely Planet (LP) guidebook said the trip should cost 300 Baht (about $10). Every taxi driver started at 900 Baht then almost immediately dropped to 500. After a very frustrating 10 minutes or so of this, I went back into the airport, reread the LP and saw that I should look for the official metered taxi desk and sure enough, no yelling and a fixed 400 Baht fee. I got to my hostel and had a restless night.
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Nevertheless, I got up early in the morning to begin the vacation. I walked to Wat Traimit who holds the largest solid gold Buddha in the world. Wow. Then I walked to the Grand Palace. When I got there I fell for a scheme I had specifically read in my LP (later I felt less stupid when I met someone else who had read of the scheme and fallen victim to it also).
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As I approached the palace, I was approached by an official looking man asking if I was going to the palace. After an affirmative answer, he said it was closed right now but there were other attractions nearby worth seeing which I should see and then return a few hours later when it would be open. He ushered me into a tuk-tuk (a common 3-wheeled motorized taxi) who was no doubt in on the scheme and off I went. I should also note that part of that harassment I received at the airport was continued by every tuk-tuk driver who drove past me over the next 9 days.

He took me to 2 or 3 temples which were quite nice, I have to say. Then he wanted to take me to a Thai silk suit factory (the part of the scheme where they try give a hard sell on a new suit and everyone gets a cut). I said I didn't want to go and he got very strange, dropped me off, and said that the ride was over. He originally was going to charge me 20 Baht (less than $1) but then said I owed him 2000 Baht ($65 or so) and we settled on 200. I was happy to just be done with him and only out $6.50, but I had to figure out where the heck I was.
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Thankfully, it was at another temple which I wanted to see, Wat Suthat. There I met Sam who started up a conversation. Considering my tuk-tuk ride, I was very leery. It was clear that Sam wanted to serve as a guide and I just came out and asked him how much he wanted. Since it was a modest amount, I said ok, and we went around together for the rest of the afternoon, starting with the amazing Grand Palace.

From there, we walked to Wat Pho with a huge reclining Buddha. At that point, Sam walked me to the river where I rode up and down for a little while, resting up for the climb to Wat Saket which afforded nice views of Bangkok. It was still early, so I walked to a mall and indulged one of my favorite activities which has been lacking: I saw a film -- I am Legend (equalling the number of films I've seen in Japan). Even though I'm not a huge science-fiction/dystopic picture fan, I enjoyed it and didn't mind the rest for my sore feet and the respite from the heat and humidity. After a great green curry dinner, I showered at the train station and got an overnight train at 10:30pm to the city of Buriram, east of Bangkok.

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